May 26, 2010
The
Official Blog of the
anuncios
Minka
Hot new Musical Group
Book Travel
Taxes and Accounting
The
first Waterfall
Treegap
Petersburg,Alaska
Waterfront Home
FOR
SALE
Email:
Home
Design and Layout
Equipment
Construction
Phase One - Complete
Phase Two - Complete- Phase Three - Next
Cruising Plans
Naval Plaque
Similar Boats Available Items for Sale
| Building
the fuel tanks. The regulations for fuel tanks for recreational
vessels are for gas tanks, there are no Coast Guard regulations for
diesel fuel tanks, except that the fuel hoses need to be rated for fuel
and double clamped at the connections. One thing this means is that there can be fittings on the tank other than on the top of the tank. In my case I will draw off the top of the tank but I want sight glasses on the sides so there will be one fitting on the bottom with a valve at the fitting to be opened only when checking the level of fuel in the tank. Recommendations (from my online research) for diesel fuel tanks are: 1. It can be integral with the hull but should not be if the hull is cored because if there is a leak (as where the dip stick hits) it can soak into the core. 2. Use polyester resin. For the surface coat paint the inside of the tank with resin that has finish or sanding agent in it. 3. The fiberglass needs to be 1/8 inch thick. ?? Depends on if it is stand alone, how large it is . . . If it is over plywood, that gives it the structural strength. 4. My tanks will be 108 inches long so need at least two baffles. A lighter, faster gas powered boat that bounces around a lot would require at least 3 baffles. This is just what I got out of the research, do your own and see what you come up with. | |
| Aft bulkhead for the engine room is in and ready to work on the fuel tanks. Click on an image to see a larger view. Click on 'back' button to return to this page. |  |
  | Since the aft wall of the tank will block off the limber holes from the area behind the fuel tank new limber holes were installed to drain any water that may collect in that void. |
| Fuel tank side extensions glassed in and the race for the steering hydraulic lines is glass. |  |
 | To layup the baffles and tank tops a piece of MDF was used. It was waxed with a couple coats of mold release first then once before each layup. I used three layers of 1 oz matt and two layers of 24 oz roven which made the baffles and tank tops a little more than 1/8 inch thick. |
| To make ledgers for the top to set on while fiberglassing just screw a WAXED block and fiberglass a ledger. See below. |  |
 | Ready for a top. Baffles are fiberglassed in with a pvc pipe across the top for strength. Ledger blocks ready and the tank inside coated with a coat of resin with sanding agent in it so it will set with a hard surface. |
| Dip
tube, vent and return fittings. The dip tube extends to one inch
from the bottom of the tank which slopes to that corner from back to
front and from side to side. I quizzed my experts on whether I should support the dip tube at the bottom. It was a agreed that it was not necessary. |  |
 | One and one half inch filler in the back of the tank. |
| Top and bottom fittings for a sight glass. The fancy little design around the top is the plywood gound out so the thru hull fitting would be long enough to put a 90 on. |  |
 | Both tanks ready for tops |
| If you have ever been to Alabama in May or tried to fiberglass in direct hot sun, it can be very frustrating because of the heat. I finally got smart and put up a tent and with the breeze going through it was actually comfortable enough to work. |  |
 | Fuel tanks are finally complete. Tanks were pressure tested before covering up with the deck. Next: Removal of the engine hatch and construction of the main cabin sole. |